As the owner and designer of Blue Calla Patterns, I have always received questions related to sewing machines suitable for bag making. Since receiving my Janome HD9 professional machine, I have been inundated with questions regarding this machine and how well it performs when it comes to making bags and purses. This blog post is the perfect opportunity to address some of those questions!
The most frequently asked questions are regarding the strength of the machine when sewing through thick layers, the types of thread it can handle, presser foot height and finally, the recommended attachments for bag making.
Is this machine capable of sewing through thick layers?
Yes, definitely. I have tried many comparable machines and this machine does not hesitate when sewing through thick layers. You must remember that it’s always important to use the right type of needle for the type of fabric you are using but when done correctly, I have never had an issue or a broken needle. The motor does not sound like it is struggling.
To illustrate, I created a “layer sandwich” which consists of 2 layers of 10-ounce waxed cotton canvas, 2 layers of cork fabric and 2 layers of foam interfacing.
For my test, I used a thicker thread – Tex 75 or a 40 wt. in both the bobbin and my top thread. The machine was threaded using the heavy weight threading guide and I had my stitch length set to 5.
The stitch length remained consistent and the machine had no issues. I have sewn through this many layers and more when topstitching bags – especially at the side seams.
What kind of thread can I use?
When making bags, it is important to always use 100% polyester thread unless you are sewing with leather. With the Janome HD9, you can use the same weight in both the bobbin and your top thread.
There is no need to use a regular weight thread in the bobbin because the Janome HD9 was designed to work with heavier thread. The larger bobbin size is fantastic for holding more thread – even with heavier thread weights.
There are 3 different thread weights I use with the Janome
HD9:
- 100 wt. thread or Tex 30 which is considered regular weight thread (left)
- 40 wt. or Tex 75, also known as upholstery thread (middle)
- 30 wt. or Tex 100, also known as topstitching thread (right)
My default needle type when using a regular weight thread is a Sharp size 90/14 (seen on the left in the photo above). I find this needle goes through everything including cork and vinyl/faux leather fabric.
When using heavier thread, I tend to use a topstitch needle size 90/14 or 100/16 (on the right in the photo) which has a much larger eye and reduces the chances of your thread shredding.
If you are sewing with leather, make sure you use a leather needle!
The topstitching in the photo above shows all 3 thread weights.
How many layers can I get under the presser foot?
At first glance, it may look like you can’t get much under the presser foot but if you gently pull up on the presser foot lever, you can get up to ½” of height under the foot.
I used the same “layer sandwich” from above which has a height of ½”. By gently lifting on the presser foot lever, I was able to get the presser foot slightly higher and fit this thickness underneath.
What are the most important presser foot attachments I will need for bag making?
There are 3 attachments that I use with the HD9: the Straight Stitch foot which I use 90% of the time, the UltraGlide Foot which I use when topstitching vinyl and faux leather and the Adjustable Zipper foot for zipper installations.
Janome Life 
Hello,
I have a question concerning leather needles: The only HLx5 needles (from Janome and Organ, for instance) I can find are in sizes 65/#9, 75/#11, 90/#14, 100/#16 ; I usually use 90 or 100 for leather, but these are all described as “slightly rounded needle point” or “light ball spike”.
My normal leather needles (130/705H) are the triangular needles which “cut” through the leather; are there HLx5 needles with that kind of tip or can/should I use 130/705H leather needles?
Thanks
ph
LikeLike
Hi
I will reply when I return from vacation later this week. I don’t have information with me to refer to in an answer to your question.
Liz
JANOME CANADA
LikeLike
Hi,
Thank you for taking the time, I appreciate it.
regards
ph
LikeLike
Hi,
If you are using HLX5 needles size 90 or 100 on your leather, then it must be pretty soft and pliable. If your stitching is neat and the tension is good, I see no reason why you should not continue to do so. I have used these types of needles on leather and vinyl many times – successfully. And yes, these needles do not have the leather needle tip which works more like punching than a regular needle tip.
If you are using thicker leather or multiple layers to create a thickness, I would recommend you use our leather needles as they are designed to penetrate that extra thickness of leather.
I hope that assists you.
Liz
JANOME CANADA
LikeLike
Hello Liz,
Thank you for your answer; your reply to the question by Sandra earlier was also pretty much in line with what I wanted to know.
I guess from the specs and manual of the machine people (well, me, for sure) get the impression that we should/can be using HLx5 needles ONLY and that there would need to be a say “HLx5 100 leather needle” for the HD9.
But what I gather from your answer and this thread now is that using normal (i.e. 15×1 H aka 130/705H system) Janome leather needles is possible and OK for the HD9 and that the HLx5 are just the *better* choice when actually doing high speed sewing on woven fabrics, because they are an optimized kind of needle for the strain of the high speed.
When sewing leather I personally go much slower (400-450 stitches/min tops as an estimate), so normal needles should be no problem.It all boils to not wanting to break or damage my (precious) machine over time by using the wrong kind of needle.
So thank you and have a good weekend
ph
LikeLike
Can this machine make vinyl straps and attach them to a bag?
LikeLike
Hi Lucy,
Yes it most definitely can. The HD stands for heavy duty and it really sews through layers and thicker bag making fabrics with ease. But don’t take my word alone for this. Check out the HD9 Facebook group where people who have purchased this machine literally rave about the abilities for bag making and more.
Liz
JANOME CANADA
LikeLike
Hi Lucy,
In addition, did you see the thicknesses Céline sewed through in this post? She loved using our HD9 as an artisan for Janome Canada so much that she purchased it! She sews bags all the time with straps, bag stiffening , vinyl, cork etc and has no difficulty at all. Neither do I when I sew bags with this machine – is like a hot knife through butter!
Liz
LikeLike
Love the info as a new janome user. Thanks
LikeLike
I thought this machine only uses HLX5 needles, but in the article it is talking about the normal needles 90/14 and topstitch needles, can I use other needles than HLX5 too?
LikeLike
Hi Sandra,
I answered in your other comment.
Liz
JANOME CANADA
LikeLike
you give advice about which needles to use for the thread, but the HD9 needs special needles, or can we also use the regular needles from householdmachines.
LikeLike
Hi Sandra,
The needles included with the HD9 are HLx5 size 14. They have a brown colour tip. That does not mean that these are the only needles you may use. They are flat back needles just like the needles for regular sewing machines. We always recommend you use a needle most suitable for the thread and fabric type you are sewing. This was what Celine was writing about in this post: she gave recommendations about what works for her sewing. She makes bags hence mentioning cork and vinyl etc.
Hope that helps. You might also want to join the HD9 Facebook group as they have lots of discussion and queries on that group.
Liz
JANOME CANADA
LikeLike
Hello Liz, Thank you very much for your answer. The reason I asked it that the (Dutch) manual says you have to use a HLX5 needle and the table with threads and fabrics only mention HLX5 needles. I found the facebook group, thank you for the suggestion, it is a great group with lots of knowledge.
LikeLike
Very helpful and this week going to use your suggestions. I did purchase a table. I do like the machine and appreciate you taking time to do a post.
LikeLike