Happy Thanksgiving and NEW project available to download!

Find this charming device case project courtesy of our partnership with Sew4Home ………….NOW on our website under the Inspire tab >>Sew4Home. This device case is another exclusive Janome Canada project for you to download, make and enjoy.

Download detailed project instructions here.

With Christmas not that far off, would this not make the ideal gift for some people on your Christmas gift list?? Why not personalize it with a monogram or fabric choice you know will please your loved one?

Happy sewing!!

And Happy Thanksgiving to our Janome fans in Canada!!

Posted in Janome Project tutorial, S4H Sew4Home | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

HAPPY THANKSGIVING

We wish all our Janome life viewers a very Happy Canadian Thanksgiving. May you stay safe in your “bubble” and sew wonderful projects at your favourite Janome sewing machine!

Posted in Janome Sewing Machine | 3 Comments

Saturday Sewing: a tutorial for making Clear Masks

I think I’ve tried almost 10 different styles of masks since the COVID-19 pandemic was first declared.

Sewers around the world have stepped up to the call in so many different ways to help provide non-medical masks. Many of my friends have sewn hundreds of masks all on their own.

There are a lot of patterns out there. Including many shared here on the Janome Life blog.

I originally started making pleated masks. I think it was one of the first styles available back in March when I was looking for tutorials. Then I found – as many of you probably have, that those of us who wear glasses need something more tailored at the nose. I tried some pleated masks with nose wires, but then became curious about a style called 3D masks (one of the first to post about this was Bilikis Signature).

The 3D style is now my go-to mask since it not only helps greatly in preventing my glasses from fogging up but it sits off the face a bit and feels like it’s easier for talking.

The current version that I make is a compilation of design, measurement and instructions from at least three or four different patterns.

As I have been helping provide masks for friends and family, I got a few requests from teacher friends and those who have family who are hearing impaired to consider trying a clear mask style. A challenge that I gladly took up!

Window Mask Instructions

Cut two pieces of fabric 7.5 inches by 10 inches.

The unique 3D shape of this mask comes from this next step. Mark each corner two inches across and two inches down and then cut on the diaconal. I use my cutting mat and position in the grid. Then turn your two pieces right sides together (you can also do the cutting right sides together!).

With right sides facing, sew along top starting at the diagonal and ending along the diagonal on the other side. Then do the same on the bottom.

Next mark the cut-out portion for the clear plastic that will be the window in your mask.

Find the centre of your mask by folding in half lengthwise, and then mark the centre between the top and bottom of the mask.

Mark where you will cut your opening. I marked a rectangle that is 1 1/2 inches lengthwise and 1 inch top to bottom (a half an inch either side of the centre mark). Then I marked where I will notch a diagonal 1/2 inch to turn up my edges and create a nice finish.

Trim the opening using these marks as your guide and press open on both sides.

Turn the mask so the fabrics are right sides out and press the edges.

Cut a piece of plastic for your window. You want the plastic to be slightly bigger than the window so you can edge stitch it in place but not too big so it impacts the fit of the mask. I cut my plastic to 3 inches high by 4 1/4 inches wide.

You want a fairly heavy but still pliable plastic. Something that won’t easily be crinkled or get creased. With this mask it will have to be hand washed and care will have to be take to ensure it’s not stored by folding in half.

Next, fold down the top and bottom to create your front seam for the mask.

With the mask front facing down on your ironing board, fold the top down 1 5/8 inch and press. (Can I just note for a moment that this little ruler has been with me since high school Home Ec!! It certainly shows a little wear and tear but I reach for it a lot!)

Do the same with the bottom of the mask. Fold at 1 5/8 inch and press.

Back at your sewing machine, top stitch along the diagonal, top and diagonal and then the diagonal, bottom, diagonal sections (leave the sides open).

And then with the flap you pressed, run a very scant 1/4 inch top stitch along the length of your mask top and bottom. This helps create the shape around your face.

Insert the plastic piece into the window cutout and position so it fits evenly around all four edges.

Top stitch around all four sides very close to the edge.

Finally we finish off the sides where the elastic will go. Fold down the sides by 1 cm and then again by the same amount, and press.

Stitch along the folded edge. Make sure to backstitch at the top and bottom as this is a spot that will get heavy wear from the elastic.

I’m using the Janome HP foot and plate on my Janome Skyline S9 and it is a dream for these edges!!

Next we fold and sew the flaps to create the final part of our 3D mask.

Take the flap by the corner and place at the top edge of your mask on one side. Do the same for the bottom and then secure by sewing from the top of the mask to the bottom, catching the flap you just folded up.

The last thing to do is thread through your elastic. I am using 11 inch pieces of elastic on both sides. Currently I’m using 1/4 inch elastic but I know a lot of people prefer 1/8 elastic. This can be made using either.

I have been feeding through my elastic using a bobby pin! I saw this hack online and it’s great for those tight, narrow channels (like these!) where it’s hard to fit a safety pin.

And there you have it – a see through mask!

A couple of notes about these masks:

They must be hand-washed and air dried.

Plastic will fog up, eventually. It’s just the nature of plastic masks. They don’t allow the air to circulate out the same that non-medical quilt cotton masks do (and depending on the style, us glasses-wearing people know those can cause fogging issues in other ways).

To get around some of the fogging issues, place a small drop of dish detergent on the inside of the mask on the plastic and rub in with a soft cloth. This makes a huge difference. But you will have to reapply if you wear for long periods of time.


I think these are a great option for those situations where you want someone to be able to see a smile and facial expressions. And for people who could benefit from lip reading. It’s not my go-to, everyday mask but I think it’s great to be able to have the option.

Are you making masks? What is your favourite style? Pleated? Fitted? 3D? Something else? Could you see yourself using a window mask or making one for someone else?

 

Our grateful thanks to Trina, Janome Canada artisan, for this detailed alternative mask. Ed.

Posted in Janome Project tutorial, Janome Skyline S9 | Tagged , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Free Motion Quilting with the Janome M7

Artisan

One of the benefits of the Janome Continental M7 is its large throat space. With 13½” of quilting room and all the free motion quilting feet you’ll need included with it, it’s so fun and easy to free motion quilt on the Janome Continental M7.

Janome M7 full

Let’s take a look at the settings and the feet that are included with the Janome Continental M7 for free motion quilting.

Included with your purchase of the Janome Continental M7, are several feet that you can use for free motion quilting.

There are the PD-H feet which look very similar. The difference between these two feet is that one is a closed-toe foot (PD-H closed-toe foot) and the other is an open-toe foot (PD-H open-toe foot). These may look familiar to you as most sewing machines have free motion quilting feet that look similar to these.

Janome M7 PD-H feet - 1

PD-H open-toe foot and PD-H closed-toe foot

I like to use the PD-H open-toe foot for the visibility it provides me but there are times when the closed-toe foot works better. I find the PD-H closed-toe foot works better as there aren’t any open parts on it to get caught in any embellishments that might be on the quilt. It’s nice to have a choice!

Both of these feet are already attached to their own foot holder so you just need to screw them onto the presser foot bar and you’re ready to go.

There are also some smaller feet included with the Janome M7: the QO, QC, and QV feet. These need to be clipped onto the regular foot holder that you use for many of the other presser feet.

Janome M7 QO, QC and QV foot - 1

QC, QO (on foot holder), and QV feet

These feet are good for thinner quilt sandwiches or even working on other media, such as paper.  You can also use these feet for thicker quilts as all you need do is adjust the foot height on the screen of the machine in the SET menu. See more on this below on how to do this. This operates in a very similar way on other machines which have these feet such as the Janome Mc15000 Ed.

Dictionary Paper Project Finished - 1

Free motion quilting on paper

The QO and QC feet are similar to the PD-H feet in that one is an open-toe foot, the QO foot, and the other is closed-toe the QC foot.

QV foot can be used for thinner quilt sandwiches where you want to do some echoing. You can use the lines on the foot to line up to previously stitched line. It’s also helpful when you want to stitch close to appliqué pieces as the dish shape of the foot ensures that it doesn’t get caught on the appliqué.

Once you’ve decided which foot to use, you’ll need to be sure that you have the proper needle plate attached. There are 3 needle plates included with the Janome M7 and when you’re free motion quilting, its best to use the straight stitch needle plate. This helps to keep the needle going up and down in a straight line and minimizes needle flex so it gives you better stitches. Removing and installing needle plates is as easy as a touch of the button on the Janome M7.

Janome M7 Straight Stitch Needle Plate - 1

Straight stitch needle plate

One of the optional accessories I like to use when free motion quilting is the blue dot bobbin case which is specific for the Janome M7. It has a lower tension that gives perfect free motion quilting stitches. You can get this optional accessory from your local Janome dealer. There are other blue dot bobbin cases for our other Janome machines. Ask your dealer for the correct one for your machine.

Janome M7 Blue Dot Bobbin Case Holder - 1

Blue dot bobbin case holder for the Janome M7

Now that you’ve selected one of the free motion quilting feet, have the blue dot bobbin case holder installed, and the straight stitch needle plate in place, it’s time to check out the free motion quilting settings!

The Janome M7 has several free motion quilting modes that will automatically set you up for your best free motion quilting results. When you are in one of these modes, the feed dogs will drop automatically so you don’t need to do this manually……. Another helpful feature of the Janome M7!

You’ll find the free motion quilting modes in the Sewing Applications Menu (t-shirt icon).

1 M7 main menu utility screen - 1

Main menu on the Janome M7. The t-shirt icon is on the top right side of the screen.

Once you’ve pressed the t-shirt (Sewing Applications) icon, you’ll be taken to another menu where you can choose the quilting modes.

3 M7 FMQ screen - 1

Click on the heart/feather icon to access the Quilt options.

When you choose the Free Motion icon, you’ll notice that there are 2 options available for free motion quilting: Straight Stitch 1 and Straight Stitch 2.

4 FMQ on M7 Straight Stitch 1 screen - 1

Free motion quilting options screen

Straight Stitch 1 is the automatic option for free motion quilting and the one you’ll use most of the time, but… if you are working on a thin quilt sandwich, you’ll want to choose Straight Stitch 2 and use the recommended feet.

5 M7 FMQ Straight Stitch 2 - 1

Straight Stitch 2 option with suggested feet

When you’re in the Straight Stitch 2 option, you’ll be able to adjust the presser foot height for your presser foot right on this screen. While the Straight Stitch 2 option automatically moves the presser foot closer to your quilt sandwich for best results, you are able to adjust the foot height up or down by pressing on the blue foot icon at the top right. (You can also adjust your presser foot height in your machine settings menu on the right side of the screen).

For more detailed information on setting up the Janome M7 for free motion quilting, click on the video below.

With all of the free motion quilting feet choices and the free motion quilting modes available, you’ll have everything you need to be successful in your free motion quilting on the Janome M7.

If you’re looking for help in getting started in free motion quilting, click here for details on the “First Steps into Free Motion Quilting” online course by Chatterbox Quilts.

Happy creating from Kim Jamieson-Hirst of Chatterbox Quilts, a Janome Canada Artisan in Calgary, Alberta.

Posted in Janome Continental M7 | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Look what you can do with Artistic Digitizer: Customizing your View

So who’s excited about another free trial of the amazing Artistic Digitzer ? Have you requested your access code yet? It’s really exciting to be able to try out this software before making the commitment. But please be patient – your code can take 24-48 hours to reach you after you have applied online for it. Go to www.janome.ca >> promotions. Please follow the application instructions 100% and remember that applications for the free trial close NEXT week 15th October so hurry!  You can use the software until 31st October once you have the access code. 

Before we jump into today’s Artistic Digitizer information, we want to make you aware that we are running a series of ONLINE classes on Artistic Digitizer through some of our Janome dealers here in Canada. This is a 3 part series of 2 hour classes = 6 hours of very good embroidery software tuition. They are all online classes and we would love for you to have the opportunity to attend. Bookings for these classes (there is a booking fee for each class) must be made with the dealers listed below. You need to book in order to receive the code to log onto each class. (Please note that we are NOT taking bookings here on Janome Life. Bookings need to go through the Janome Canada dealer.)

Detailed Notes have been written and will be provided by the applicable dealer to those who register and attend these classes.

Tom’s Sewing Machines, Surrey, BC Part 1 this week Friday 9th October at 10am – noon Pacific. Please call the store to book Tel 604-507-2841 to get your class code to log on.  They will give you the dates and times for Part 2 and 3. 

Triangle Sewing, Guelph, ON. Please book online at their website: www. trianglesewing.com >> classes.    Part 1 is next week Tuesday 13th Oct at 1-3pm Eastern. You will need to book for all 3 classes Part 1, 2 and 3 as shown on their website in order to maximize your learning.  

Ultimate Sewing, Oshawa, ON.  Please register with the store Tel: (905)436-9193.  Part 1 is Wed 14th October at 10am – noon Eastern. The store will be happy to book you into part 2 and 3 and provide those dates & times + class codes to you. 

Taylor Sewing, Brockville, ON Please call the store at (613) 342-3153 Artistic Digitizer Part 1 will be offered on 5th November at 7-9 pm Eastern. 

If these dates don’t work for you, we are sorry we won’t see you in these classes, but please ask your favourite Janome Canada dealer to call Liz ASAP to book these Artistic Digitizer classes For their store. However, we are almost fully booked until Christmas so it might be that the next opportunity to attend these Artistic Digitizer classes will not be until January or February next year………long after the free trial for the Artistic Digitizer has expired! So get cracking and book NOW. Ed. 

Back to today’s Artistic Digitizer info on how to customize your view:

I want to talk today about customizing your view inside the software. There are so many different options!

This is how it first opens up when you make a ‘new’ design:

We can see all the different toolbars etc.

When you click on ‘View’ from the top ribbon bar, it opens a box like this:

A checkmark beside the option means that the option is enabled.

Look at all the things you can customize! You can decide if you want to see stitches in your design, whether or not your preview is in 3D and so much more. The options that I prefer to change depending on what I’m doing are in the second section: Grid, Guidelines and Hoop. When the Grid is enabled, a graph will appear inside the hoop’s stitchable area. It’s measurement is in inches, so each small box is 1/4″. I find it so helpful when I’m digitizing from the backdrop or drawing my own shapes. With the ‘snap’ function, it means that any lines I create will snap to the intersection of two lines, making my design straight.

The dark red lines are the inch markings, light red is for 1/2″ segments and the blue lines show the 1/4″ increments.

The other thing I really like about the ‘View’ options is that it makes it really easy to know if your design fits in your hoop. As soon as it’s outside of the stitching area, a pink box appears so that you know for sure.

When you make changes to the View options, they appear automatically in the software so that you can edit how you see things at any point while you are using the software. No need to close and reopen to see changes made.

 

You can also have it restore back to the default settings at any time. Once you are happy with how you like to have it, you can save the current workspace to be the default, and it will open that way every time you go to play with Artistic Digitizer. So what have you discovered so far with your copy of the software? Which view settings do you prefer? Let us know in the comments!

Thanks to Anne Hein of Janome America for the software snippets info. 

 

Until next time,

JanomeGirl

Posted in Artistic Digitizer embroidery software | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments

October Mini Sewing tips with Janome Canada and Sew4Home

How to Make Continuous Bias Binding

Cutting and seaming together bias strips is the standard technique for custom bias binding. And, it works great. Continuous bias binding is one of those “two birds with one stone” techniques. Simply stated, it’s a technique for pre-sewing bias binding strips before you actually cut them. The process eliminates having to sew a bunch of strips together end-to-end to get the length you need to go around your project.

It’s a little bit like the ancient art of origami. You start out with a flat square (or rectangle), and after a few folds and flips here and there, you have something completely different, very dimensional, and quite useful.

If you are brand new to working with binding, take a look at the Sew4Home tutorial: Bias Binding: Figuring Yardage, Cutting, Making, Attaching. It gives you all the handy formulas, tips, and techniques for the four key steps outlined in its title, discusses single fold versus double fold, and lists the tools to have on hand.

Once you’ve done the “fabric math” (using our tutorial or your own experienced brain power)… onward we go to continuous bias binding.

If you review continuous bias binding methods in quilt books, as well as on websites and blogs, you’ll find a few variations in the actual steps for the technique. Using our experience, we captured what we feel is the best of the bunch: a single set of steps that provides a clear and simple approach.

NOTE: Were using a plain fabric and a permanent marker so you can clearly see the marking steps. However, YOU should use a fabric pen or pencil that can be easily wiped away or that will vanish with exposure to the air or the heat of an iron.

Lay your fabric on a cutting mat, right sidedown.

Cut the predetermined size square from your binding fabric (again, the tutorial mentioned above gives you the formulas needed to determine this size). Your figuring should include removing the selvage edges. We trimmed our fabric to a 21″ x 21″ square.

To find the true bias, fold the square at a diagonal. Press the fold in place.

Open the fabric back up so you can see the crease. The fabric should still be right sidedown.

Mark the leftside of your square with an “A,” the right side with a “B.”

Using a see-through ruler and a rotary cutter, cut along the diagonal crease line.

Carefully place the “B” triangle to one side.

Carefully flip over the “A” triangle so it is now right sideup.

Place triangle “B” on top of triangle “A” so they are right sides together and the bias cut edges form an “X” as shown in the photo below.

Place pins along the straight edge.

NOTE: The points of the triangles will extend slightly beyond the right angle at either end. This is correct.

Carefully bring your fabric to your sewing machine.

Using a straight stitch and a ¼” seam allowance, sew along the straight edge, removing the pins as you go.

Press the seam open.

All the marking is done on the wrong side of the fabric, so place your fabric back on the cutting mat right sidedown. Your sewn fabric should now look a parallelogram and your seam should be vertical.

With your fabric pencil and see-through ruler, mark seam lines ¼” in from the raw edges along the top and bottom of the parallelogram.

Working from left to right, mark the pre-determined width of your binding strips (our pre-determined binding width was 2″ – again, you can refer to the previously mentioned S4H tutorial to see how to figure that out).

These lines should intersect with the ¼” seam lines marked at the top and bottom.

Continue to mark in this matter across the entire parallelogram.

If you have excess width at the end that does not equal the cut width of your bias strips, mark it with a bunch of Xs so you remember to trim it off and discard it at the end of the process.

Along the top of the parallelogram, number your lines: 0, 1, 2, 3, etc. until all the lines are numbered. Yep… start with zero along the top.

Along the bottom of the parallelogram, number your lines: 1, 2, 3, etc. until all lines are numbered. Yes, along the bottom, you start with 1.

Fold the parallelogram right sides together, carefully matching the top and bottom numbers…1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3, etc. pinning in place as you go.

NOTE: You will match the 0” to theraw edge. This is your starting point where you will begin to sew in the following steps.

If you look closely, when you match up the numbered points, the drawn lines create an “X”.  (We put a light behind our fabric in the photo below so you can see what we’re talking about.)

When you’re completely done pinning, your parallelogram should look like an odd shaped tube. If it’s flat, something is wrong.

Bring the fabric tube to your sewing machine.

Sew along the drawn ¼” seam line where you matched the numbers. Begin to sew at the zero – at the intersecting first seam. Stop at your last marked number. Our last marked number was 5.

NOTE: Since you will be cutting across thisseam, shorten yourstitch lengthto help keep the stitching intact. We used 1.8mm. Also, you will have to slightly manipulate the positioning of the tube as you sew thisseam; be sure to handle the fabric gently so it doesnt stretch out of shape.

Press the seam open. You will have to rotate the tube as you press the seam.

With fabric scissors, cut along the marked line, starting at zero.

Continue around and around, cutting along the drawn line, spiraling around the tube, until you get to the end.

Congratulations! You just made continuous bias binding.

Remember that extra section we marked with Xs? Now’s the time to cut it off.

At this point, you will press your binding into a single or double fold then sew it to your project.

Here is the link to the Sew4Home article.

By: Liz Johnson, Senior Editor, Sew4Home – a Janome Exclusive Studio

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Monthly Mini Sewing tips | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Does 1/2 inch of fabric matter?

Post written by Anne Stitcher – Janome Canada Educator.

 

If I said that you could save 1/2 an inch of fabric, you would probably think, so what? It is only 1/2 an inch of fabric. But over time that 1/2 an inch of fabric does add up. Fabric is expensive and I don’t like wasting it.

 

If you use our Quilt Binder for putting binding on your quilts, each strip is only 2 inches instead of 2.5 inches. A baby quilt is 4 strips of binding, so there is an inch of fabric by WOF (Width of Fabric) you have saved! 

Just to give you a visual example of the difference of what 1/2 an inch of fabric can make.

This baby quilt was created with a 5 fat quarter bundle by Carola Russell.

This is a bed or suitcase quilt or a long table runner & was created with a 5 fat quarter bundle by Carola Russell.

So, these two beautiful items were created with the exact same about of fabric. Every seam reduces the finished product by 1/2 of an inch. The baby quilt has 5 small pieces for every block while the bed quilt has larger pieces. 1/2 of an inch does make a difference.

The next time someone says 1/2 an inch of fabric isn’t much, show them this. Thanks Carola Russell for sharing your creations with us.

Contact your local Janome Dealer for the Janome Quilt Binder and do a search on this blog for tips and tricks for creating fabulous bindings.

Posted in Janome Quilt Binder set | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Look what you can do with Artistic Digitizer Software: Digitizing Embroidery using Backdrop Images

REMINDER: HAVE YOU APPLIED FOR THE FREE TRIAL CODE FOR THIS SOFTWARE YET? The clock is ticking so head over to http://www.janome.ca to apply NOW before the opportunity is missed! Applications close 15th October and the free trial period expires on 31st October. 

And here is the first of many posts we have for you during the free trial period with information on how to use the features in our Artistic Digitizer software. 

One of my favourite reasons to own Artistic Digitizer Embroidery Software is that you can take an image or logo or drawing (please make sure that it’s a royalty-free image or you have permission to use it) and import it into the software to digitize yourself.

You can easily import it into the software by using ‘From File’.

When working with an image/graphic– bitmap, (.jpg, .png, .gif, .bmp, and .tiff.), there are options as to how to work with it. After the image is selected, the Artwork Image window opens with the choices to work with that image.

When the design arrives on the edit screen the image will be behind it. Go to View, Backdrop – the drop down will show the items used with the backdrop: Hidden, Below embroidery, Edge enhance, Above embroidery.

The last choice is Properties – my favorite! Here you have choices to work with your graphic: rotation, placement, scale or alignment. Why do I like this? It is here I can work with my image without other software! If you were planning to draw/digitize the image manually with the digitize tools, the image can be enlarged to make tracing it easier or to see details better. When you are done you can resize your design to the size you need.

Thanks to Anne Hein of Janome America for creating this content for us! What’s your favourite feature or tool in Artistic Digitizer? Let us know in the comments below.

Until next time,

JanomeGirl

Posted in Artistic Digitizer embroidery software | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Janome HQ’s Instagram LIVE THIS WEDNESDAY 1pm EST

Join us LIVE at 1pm EST @janomehq Instagram page every Wednesday for Janome HQ’s NEW series “Janome’s Magical Machine Mystery Tour” as we highlight a different machine in the Janome line. From entry level to Top of the Line; embroidery machines; longarm quilting machines; sergers and MORE!

What machine and Janome goodies will we talk about this week? It’s a MYSTERY so you must tune in each week for the big reveal! Don’t worry if you can’t make the LIVE presentation, though. They’ll be stored in the IGTV icon on the Janome HQ Instagram Page and later posted as videos on the Janome HQ You Tube channel.

JMMMT Artwork 2

Follow us on the Janome HQ Facebook page and write me at Classes@Janome-Canada.com (copy and paste in a new browser) for more information about upcoming on-line classes and (eventually) on site classes at The Janome Sewing and Learning Centre in Oakville, ON; Janome Canada’s Head Quarters.

Happy Sewing and #sharethejanomelove!

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Storage Solutions for the Janome Quilt Maker Pro Longarm Quilting Machines

As the saying goes, “A place for everything and everything in its place.”  We sewists, quilters, creative people; any hobbyist or collector will certainly agree. We have “stuff” and need places to put it to stay organized and to work efficiently.

Putting that into practice, however, is another problem entirely!

If you own one of our fabulous Janome Quilt Maker Pro longarm quilting machines; the Janome QMP 18 or the Janome QMP 16, or are considering  purchasing one, you’ll be as thrilled as I was to know that Janome now has DRAWERS to mount under the table, so you can clear the clutter and keep all of your supplies; all of your “stuff” handy at your fingertips!

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Janome Quilt Maker Pro 18 with !2 Foot Frame

Janome QMP 16 with 5 Foot Frame

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The above two photos are of the Janome QMP 16 on the 5 Foot Frame. The top photo is the frame as it comes standard, and the bottom photo shows the 5 foot drawer attached in place under the table. There’s even little side mounting blocks to fill-in the extra space on each side of the drawer so it’s sleek and inconspicuous. Janome thinks of everything!

Inside, you have TONS of room for thread, like the fabulous Madeira AeroQuilt thread, available from your Janome or Elna Canada Dealer.

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I think it’s safe to say, we, all of us educators at Janome Canada, LOVE this thread! We used it exclusively at Quilt Canada in Ottawa last year (2019) for example, and the ONLY time I experienced a thread break was on Day 2 when I forgot to change the needle in the morning. On Day 1, we demoed the Couching Feet the majority of the day and stitched yards and yards of a variety of yarns, which, over the coarse of the day dulled the needle.

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Once I changed the needle, we were back in business, and quite literally, we did not experience any more thread breaks for the remaining 3 days of the show!

For more information on the Couching Feet Set, and other optional presser feet which will work with the Janome Quilt Maker Pro 18, Janome Quilt Maker Pro 16 AND the Artistic Quilter Sit Down 16, click on the link HERE.

Other optional accessories, like the Ruler Base, (there’s one for the QMP 18 and one for the QMP 16, so be sure to order the correct one for your machine from your dealer) easily fits in the storage drawer, as do tools, extra fabric, batting scraps, you name it! You also have the choice to mount the drawer so it faces towards the front of the machine, as in the above photo, or it can mounted to open at the back of the machine, as in the photo below.

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4 Foot Drawers can be mounted to a 4 Foot, 8 Foot, 10 Foot, or 12 Foot Frame.

The above photo shows a 4 Foot drawer opening towards the back of the machine, mounted to an 8 Foot Frame. This is a good set-up so you have easy access inside the drawer even when a quilt is on the frame, as that would be attached to the rollers at the front. The drawer(s) are a great storage solution for paper pantographs, which you’d use along the table at the back of the machine; extra bobbins; instructions for the Pro Stitcher Premium computer software, which is another amazing and awesome accessory for your longarm! Even the box for the big UPS, or Uninterruptible Power Supply unit fits in there! What’s that you ask? Why is that important?

Janome recommends using a UPS unit with your longarm quilting machine, especially if you use the Pro Stitcher Premium software. The UPS box will deliver a consistent supply of power to the machine and protect against interference and outages. In the event of a power outage, for example, the UPS will allow you to finish your row or design of quilting, save your design, if needed, and to safely shut down your machine. This, too, we learned first-hand at one of the shows, so now that UPS box stays in the drawer with the machine so it’s always at hand, ready to go whenever the machine is needed.

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Front side of the frame showing the back of the drawer

Even the backside of the drawer, shown in the above photo, which is at the front of the quilting frame, you barely notice it as it’s tucked in under the table. It looks clean and tidy, as if it’s part of the frame, and nothing sticks out anywhere to get in the way. It’s perfect!

AND, with the cool design of the Janome Quilt Maker Pro 12 Foot Frame, you can mount up to three 4 Foot drawers, so just think of all the space; all the stuff you can organize and hide away! Think of how much more quilting you could get done by having all the supplies and tools you needed to complete your project neatly stored and accessible at your fingertips. I certainly can, which is why I mounted these to the machines we use at the Janome Sewing and Learning Centre.

If your frame is set-up for an 8 Foot, as ours is at the Janome Sewing and Learning Centre, no problem, two 4 Foot drawers would work beautifully. What if you have a 10 Foot frame, which is comprised of two 4 foot sections and an optional 2 foot section? Easy, you can mount two 4 Foot drawers. What if you only have a 4 Foot frame set-up? Perfect! You can have one 4 Foot drawer, and again, you decide which way you’d like it to open; towards the front of the machine, or the back. You always have options with Janome!

We’ll be using the Janome longarms in some of the upcoming classes on-line and eventually in person at the Janome Sewing and Learning Centre in Oakville, ON. Write me at Classes@janome-canada.com (copy and paste in your browser) to be put on the class list. As well, follow Janome HQ on Facebook, and @janomehq on Instagram to stay in touch and #sharethejanomelove.

A place for everything and everything in its place. With these 4 Foot and 5 Foot Drawers available for the longarm quilting frames, it’s problem solved! As always, check with your fabulous Janome Dealer for more information.

Happy Sewing!

Posted in Janome Quilt maker Pro 18, Janome Quilting Machines & accessories, Janome Quiltmaker Pro 16, Janome Sewing Machine | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments