Celebrate spring with a 90’s inspired fleece pullover

When we launched the ALEX fleece pullover, the first request we received was “how do we make it with snaps… you know… like we used to wear in the 90’s?”

Jalie ALEX in size F (2), with the snap option (add-on available online)

You spoke, we listened 🙂 We are glad to bring you an add-on to make the snap version of our popular ALEX fleece! Grab your neon fleece and nylon and get ready to color block and install snaps!

The add-on includes not only binding and placket, but also a new chest pocket with flap, and a simpler, easier-to-sew front piece without hand pockets. Of course, you can mix and match and combine pieces from the original pattern with the add-on to create your perfect, cozy fleece pullover.

Collar

We start by assembling the front and back yoke, at shoulder seams and then sew the outer layer of the collar. Then we attach the second (inner) collar piece to the neckline, right side of collar against wrong side of the neckline.

This sandwiches the yoke is between the collar pieces. We trim the neckline seam and then baste the collar pieces wrong sides together. Notice how we mark the notches with tailor chalk. It is faster than cutting notches in the thick fleece.

collar pieces basted together at the top (inner color is a lighter shade of fleece)

Collar binding

The first binding that we sew is the one at the top edge of the collar. Sewing nylon can be tricky, but it went really well with our Janome Memory Craft 6700P.

Button placket

The next step is the placket. It is important to clearly mark the fold lines on the placket

You can also mark the top placket seam, 1 cm (3/8”) from edge before attaching the placket piece, stitching in the crease.

Then fold the placket as shown and stitch across the top to close it. Then, you turn it right side out to wrap the edge of the fleece.

Note: if you want to reduce bulk (if your nylon is thick and your snaps have a short tail), we recommend you cut out the collar corner that is hidden under the placket.

Bring the folded edge against the visible seam, pin and edgestitch:

Repeat for the other yoke edge, overlap plackets, baste along bottom edge and set the yoke aside.

Chest pocket

To give more body to the chest pocket flap, we are using three layers of nylon. Sew together (curved and short sides) with the wrong sides facing out. Clip curve, turn and edgestitch:

Pin one of the pocket pieces to the front, matching notches, and stitch as instructed. Make sure you pivot, with your needle down, to have sharp corners. Clip and flip the pocket piece to the wrong side of the front piece.

Sew the second pocket piece to the first one, 6 mm (1/4”) from edge, catching only the pocket layers (not the front):

Baste the pocket flap in place and assemble the pullovers, following instructions in the original pattern.

For the pullover assembly seams, our Janome AT2000D Air thread serger works wonderfully. Perfect tension and a clean finish inside. The assembly follow the same steps as the original pattern.

Finishing touches

For this tiny pullover in size F (for a toddler), we decided to go with a regular hem (no elastic). We used the overlock stitch for the hem. Be careful not to stretch your hem as you sew. If your fleece is stretchy or fairly thick, you might want to use the walking foot to help feed the fabric and avoid a wavy hem.

You are now ready to install snaps! Make sure your snaps have a tail that is long enough to go through the fleece and nylon layers.

You will find the link to the original pattern (with zip) and the add-on below. We look forwards to seeing your ALEX pullovers! You can upload photos of your creations directly to our pattern page 🙂